Nicholas Watkins

Anyone who has ever used a desk or wall phone knows they all have one problem in common: cords getting tangled. In the long run, it does not particularly matter how careful or gentle you are with a coiled handset cord. Eventually, the cord is going to end up as a jumbled mess. Preventing a cord from tangling in the first place is where a detangler comes in.

Phone cords do not last forever. When a cord starts to tangle, the smaller wires inside the cord begin to bend the wrong ways and start developing small, unnoticeable kinks. While the damage does not have immediate effects, it does add up over time. Eventually, the phone cord will start to have static because the damaged telephone wire can no longer transmit a phone signal properly.

Along with a static-filled signal, tangled cords are just annoying. You sit there trying to keep the cord straight as it wraps around itself, wraps around your hand, and knocks a picture frame off the table all while the damage keeps compiling. Eliminating this issue is arguably even more important than using a detangler to extend the life of the phone cord.

Functionally, a cord detangler is very simple. The detangler goes in-between the handset and the coiled cord. One side of the detangler plugs into the handset (where the phone cord would plug in normally) and then the phone cord goes into the other end of the detangler. The part of the detangler connected to the phone cord spins around, preventing the

Modern telephone cords have been in use for a long time, with little change since their invention in the 1970s. Finding phone cords in the store can be tricky today; many stores have stopped carrying telephone cables since so many people only use cell phones now. This rings especially true for coiled handset cords. With these cables becoming rarer, sometimes it is better to repair rather than replace them. Other times, users may just need a cable not available in a standard length.

There is a bit of variation with different connectors available, as well as different wiring schemes (called pinouts) for the smaller wires inside the main cord. This guide will cover how to attach a connector to the end of bare telephone wire and the difference between wiring pinouts.

Step 1: Gathering the Supplies

There are a few simple supplies that will be needed for an installation or repair. The key components are the bare phone cable and the correct type of connectors. There are three main types of connectors that can be used. RJ12 is the most common, being used on flat line cords that connect the base of a telephone to the wall. RJ11 is an older version of RJ12, and they are the same size. The difference is that RJ11 uses four internal wires (called conductors) while RJ12 cable uses six. RJ12 is backwards compatible with RJ11, but RJ11 will not work with RJ12.

Coiled

Ideally, getting a television up and running is as simple as connecting the antenna or satellite cable to the back of the TV. Realistically, a bit more work may be necessary before every channel comes in without static. Other tools can be used for protecting your televisions from power surges, extending the signal, and more.

TV Antenna Booster/Amplifier

Boosters/amplifiers are fairly self-explanatory; they make a signal stronger. Many amplifiers today are line-powered, meaning they receive power from the coax cable they are connected to. Make sure to check whether the coax cable being used transmits power; most modern coax cables do, but when working with older cables that may not be the case. If using a non-powered line, make sure to select an amplifier with a separate cord for plugging into a wall outlet.

Antenna signals and satellite have different frequency ratings and amplifiers can cover different ranges, measured in MegaHertz (MHz). Antenna signals typically run from 5 to 900 MHz. Satellite signals are in the range of 950 to 2350 MHz. When selecting an amplifier, check the frequency range it covers to see if it works with antenna, satellite, or both.

When a booster is being installed, it should be placed as close to the signal source (antenna or satellite dish) as possible. Many boosters are outdoor rated, so if possible the ideal placement is on the roof right next to the antenna/satellite dish. If the roof is not an option, shoot for wherever the cable comes into the building, like in an attic. Boosters will still work when installed somewhere else, just not as well.

Coax is one of the oldest types of cables and has withstood the test of time, still being used over 100 years after its invention. While many stores today have pre-made coax cables available, sometimes another option is needed. Users may need a cable in an unusual size or just need to replace a broken connector. This guide will show users how to put coax connectors onto the end of bare coax cable.

The installation process can vary a little depending on whether a crimp, solder, compression, or twist-on connector is used. In this guide, the first few steps will apply to all coax installations and then branch off into specific steps taken for the different coax connectors.

Example video guides detailing the below steps can be found at the bottom of the article.

Step 1: Gathering the Supplies

There are a few simple supplies that will be needed for an installation or repair. The key components are the bare coax cable and the coax connectors. Coax connectors come in different types, but the front end of the cable will always be the same size for each type. For example, an F-type male will always connect to an F-type female. There are not different versions of the two.

The back of the coax connector

Surge protectors are a simple way to protect electronics from electrical damage. Power surges can range anywhere from small impulses that gradually wear equipment down to lightning strikes that could fry everything electrical in an entire building. Not all surge protectors are equal and it is important to know the different features offered before selecting one.

Surge Protectors vs. Power Strips

The terms “surge protector” and “power strip” are often used interchangeably, but they are not the same thing. A power strip is anything that plugs into a single wall outlet and gives it multiple outlets. Not every single power strip out there has surge protection built into it. If a power strip is priced especially low, it most likely does not have any form of surge protection. While these can be used for additional outlets, they will do nothing to protect your electronics from electrical surges.

Surge protectors (also called surge suppressors) are designed to stop excess electricity from damaging anything plugged into them. This layer of protection is measured in joules. Electricity can also have signal issues due to electromagnetic interference (EMI) and radio frequency interference (RFI). There are AC surge protectors along with DC surge protectors. For this discussion, we'll talk about AC surge protectors.

What Are Joules? - Joule Ratings

Different surge protectors have di

Ethernet is one of the most important types of cables today, being used to connect all manner of technology around the world to the Internet. While many stores today have pre-made ethernet cables available, sometimes another option is needed. Users may need a cable in an unusual size or just need to replace a broken connector. This guide will show users how to put an RJ45 connector onto the end of bare ethernet cable.

Before jumping into the main guide, there is an easy fix if you have a connector where the release tab broke off. When the tab breaks, the cable will not lock into place and have trouble maintaining a connection. This can be easily fixed with a Quick Snap Latch, which is a much easier repair than replacing the whole connector. If a broken latch is the only issue, grab one of those for a simple repair that will only take a few seconds.

A video guide detailing the below steps can be found at the bottom of the article.

Step 1: Gathering the Supplies

There are a few simple supplies that will be needed for an installation or repair. The key components are the bare ethernet cable and the RJ45 connectors. Beyond that, just a few tools are needed. A cable stripper and modular crimper are essential in any scenario. A pair of

Wire strippers are simple tools that make installing new connectors on any cable a much simpler job. One of the first steps for installing a connector is peeling back the outer jacket. While this is technically possible with something like a pair of scissors, doing it that way is difficult and delicate work. More often than not, it results in cutting too deep and having to start all over.

Cable cutters are designed to cut exactly through the outer jacket, no more and no less. When used correctly, the blades should never touch anything deeper than the jacket. There are different types of cutters available as well. Most strippers are compatible with multiple cables, with these multi-cable strippers covering different cables that have similar thicknesses.

Rotary Strippers

Rotary strippers are one of the most common types of cable cutters, mainly due to how easy they are to use. The blades inside the stripper are adjustable, allowing users to change how deeply they will cut. After the cable is inserted, the stripper spins around the cable repeatedly until it cuts a ring through the jacket. The loose part of the cable jacket can then slide off the end.

There are 2-blade and 3-blade versions of rotary strippers available. The blades on a rotary stripper work similar to a shaving razor. The first blade makes the initial cut while the second and/or third blades follow up to finish. A 3-blade stripper will work better than a 2-blade since there is an extra blade to help with the work. The blades can also be replaced as they wear out over time.

Typically, rotary strippers are used with either ethernet or coaxial cable. Ethernet strippers can be used with any type of ethernet cable and will usually work with telephone cables as well. Coax strippers are rated

Keeping cables organized in racks and cabinets can be tedious, but it is well worth the effort. Nothing is worse than needing to get to a single cable having problems while trying to sort through a jumbled, unorganized mess of wires. Luckily, there are a number of options for keeping cables organized so that any repairs take minutes instead of hours.

Size is the main factor to take into consideration when looking at cable management equipment. The standard width for all racks and cabinets is 19 inches across, so that will be the size of any cable management equipment that does not say otherwise. The length of the equipment is measured in rack units (RU). A single rack unit consists of one pair of holes used to secure equipment on either side of the rack/cabinet and the space around them, measuring 1¾ inches total. When selecting cable management equipment or any other equipment, make sure to check how many RUs of space are available first.

Cable Ducts

Cable ducts are made to route, organize, and protect cables running through an open frame rack. They are fairly large, designed to run the entire length of the rack. Sizes range from 8 RU (the smallest racks made by most manufacturers) to 45 RU (the largest rack size generally available). Each cable duct has a slotted back (the slots are called “fingers”) that can be easily removed when cables need to be added, removed, or reorganized.

Cable Spools

Crimp tools, also called crimpers, are used to crimp connectors onto bare wire when assembling a cable. There are a few different versions of crimp tools, depending on how the crimper is made and what type of cable it was designed for.

How Do Crimp Tools Work?

Using a crimp tool is fairly simple. First, a cable must be stripped to expose the metal wire inside. Then the metal wire(s) are inserted into the connector. Single conductor cables (coax) are easier to use than multi-wire cables like ethernet or phone lines (additional details below). Once the wires are inserted, put the connector inside the crimp tool and squeeze the handle. The pressure applied by the crimper will tighten the connector to keep it in place.

Manual vs. Ratchet Crimpers

There are two main types of crimpers, manual and ratchet. Manual crimpers are powered completely by hand. The amount of pressure they can apply to a connector depends entirely on how hard you squeeze the handle. Manual crimpers are harder to use than ratchet crimp tools but are also less expensive. Generally, a manual crimper is the way to go if you plan on using the tool infrequently or for a small number of cables.

Ratchet crimpers are built using ratchets, which allow extra pressure to be applied when crimping. The extra power of a ratchet makes crimping much easier, requiring less raw strength for each individual crimp. This makes ratchet crimpers ideal for frequent usage or when you need to assemble many cables.

Coaxial Crimp Tools

Coaxial crimp tools are rated based on the type of cable they can be used with. The type of connector you are using does not impact whether a tool will be compatible. Since the metal ring where the connector meets the

Raceway, also called conduit, is a hollow plastic stick used to protect cables and keep them out of sight after installation. Keeping cables protected after they are installed increases the cables overall lifespan and cuts down on maintenance. Being made of solid plastic, raceway provides more than adequate protection in most non-extreme environments.

Regardless of whether cables are in a home or running through an office, raceway is widely considered a great solution for hiding cables as well as protecting them. Having bare wire hanging against the wall looks ugly. A simple plastic stick is much smoother and provides a more professional aesthetic for anything from a home TV antenna cable to a cable connecting a projector in a business office.

While raceway is not terribly complicated, there are a few factors to take into consideration before purchasing. There are different sizes of raceway available depending on how many cables will be going through it. Small raceway, for example, measures at ¾” and can hold anywhere from 1-4 ethernet cables. The next size, 1¼”, holds 5-7 ethernet cables, and so on and so forth as the sizes get bigger.

Standard raceway comes manufactured as sticks, most commonly measuring either 6 or 8 feet in length. These sticks can be cut down using a simple raceway cutting tool. Each raceway stick also has an adhesive back, allowing them to easily stick to walls or ceilings without needing to secure them some other way. Raceway is mo